Sunday 31 January 2016

50 Shades of Grey by E.L James.


When analysing my chosen novel 'The Picture of Dorian Gray' By Oscar Wilde, I realised that the continuous theme of pleasure, desire, and greed throughout the novel reminded me a lot of the similar themes in the book '50 Shades of Grey' By E.L James.


What is '50 Shades of Grey' about?

The book '50 Shades of Grey' is an erotic romance novel, that has been created into a trilogy, written by E.L James. The main characters in this novel are a college graduate called Anastasia Steele and a young business billionaire, Christian Grey. The book became scandalous and popular, well known for its erotic scenes that explore BDSM (bondage, dominance, submission, mascohsim). 

The reason this film came to mind after reading my chosen novel was that It reminded me a lot of the references to sin, domination and power taking over Dorian Gray. I got even more reference from the film adaptation of 'The Picture of Dorian Gray' also directed by Oliver Parker. In the film there is a lot of scenes where violence, pleasure and sex is mixed all into to one scene recreating the sin Dorian was committing and how he was also feeling. I feel that this theme could create a make-up look that focuses on the appeal of Dorian but making him look rugged dangerous and crazy as if he is enjoying his self destruction and obsession with sinning. 



Google Sourced Image of scene from 50 shades of Grey.

Google Sourced Image of scene from 50 shades of Grey.



References 
https://i.ytimg.com/vi/pnj5DkQe8mU/hqdefault.jpg
https://cdn2.vox-cdn.com/thumbor/-0siboe0NkygCSdMtMTG8wv06P0=/cdn0.vox-cdn.com/uploads/chorus_asset/file/3407758/50-shades-of-grey-official-trailer-01.0.jpg

Victorian Fashion For Men 1840- 1900.


After researching on Victorian women beauty Ideals and fashion, I wanted to take the time to research the same history for Victorian men also. My reasoning for this is because for my Victorian inspired character from my chosen novel, is going to be a man, (Dorian Gray) and I feel it is important for me to look at both genders so that I can show development within my ideas. I have used the online source http://www.vam.ac.uk/content/articles/h/history-of-fashion-1840-1900/ which is the official website of the Victoria and Albert museum to find information on Victorian men's fashion and hairstyles. 

1840's Victorian Men

Inspired by Prince Albert, Victorian men commonly wore flared frock coats that created an hour glass shape. Also, tight fitting trousers and tailored waistcoats with high collars and neck ties. Victorian men wore their quite long in length but swept to the sides out of the face and commonly had a moustache or long side burns.




1841 Victorian Man.
Google Sourced Image.
http://www.victoriana.com/Mens-Clothing/images/1841-31.jpg
The above image best describes the typical appearance of an 1840's Victorian man.


1850's Victorian Men

Matching coats, waistcoats and trousers were very popular and so were heavily inspired Prince Albert hairstyles such as 'large mutton - chop- side - burns and moustaches. High fastened, tight fitting frock coats and high collars with large bows around the neck were also very popular. A new style of coat called the 'sack coat' was also introduced, which was a ' thigh-length, loosely fitted jacket" and this soon became popular also. Around the 1850's a new style of hat called the 'Bowler hat', this was associated with the working class a lot and became a common hat for working class men, where as upper class men preferred 'Top Hats'.


1850's Victorian Man.
Google Sourced Image of a traditional 1850's Victorian man.
https://s-media-cache-ak0.pinimg.com/originals/3c/17/d3/3c17d3e649a2798e6c63dbd5d18dd649.gif




Bowler Hat.
Google Sourced image.
http://www.photodetective.co.uk/jpegs/Bowler-A.jpg

1850's Top Hat.
Google Sourced Image.
http://www.victoriana.com/Mens-Clothing/images/mens_hats-14.jpg http://www.photodetective.co.uk/jpegs/Bowler-A.jpg



1860's Victorian Men 

Single-breasted, semi-fitted coats extending down to the mid thigh became very popular and a new fashion trend. Waistcoats were still worn and very much part of Victorian mens traditional clothing but, were often collarless and single-breasted. High starched collars were normally worn with cravats and neck-ties. Victorian hair for men in the 1860's was still styled in a centre parting away from the face, where as the styling of the moustache and  and beard became more particular, being called 'Dundreary whiskers' or 'Piccadilly weepers' this hairstyle consisted of long whiskers worn with a full beard and a defined drooping moustache. 




1860's Victorian Man
Google Sourced Image.
http://www.victoriana.com/Mens-Clothing/images/1863_Victorian_men_10.jpg
1870's Victorian Men

Mens jackets, coats and waistcoats were semi-fitted, thigh-length and buttoned high on the chest. Shirt collars were normally stiff and upstanding, with the tips turned down into wings. Mens hair was worn parted at the centre as normal with all types of facial hair which was acceptable. 



1870's Victorian Man.
Google sourced Image.
https://s-media-cache-ak0.pinimg.com/236x/7d/11/36/7d113602b3e23aa78254170602156e94.jpg
1880's Victorian Men

In the 1880's slim-fitting longue suits were becoming very popular and were normally worn open or partially undone to reveal the high buttoning waist coat and watch-chain. Collars on shirts where still stiff and high standing.





1880's Victorian Man.
Google Sourced Image.
https://s-media-cache-ak0.pinimg.com/236x/7d/11/36/7d113602b3e23aa78254170602156e94.jpg 

1890's Victorian Men

The 1890's introduced a new three piece lounge suit this became very popular and was regularly worn by 1890's men and onwards. Frock coats were still worn, but commonly by older or more conservative men in society. Collars were also still high and upstanding, although towards the end of the century collars were worn turned down and with the modern long, knotted tie style. Mens hair in the 1890's was worn cut short, and parted at the side. Heavy moustaches became popular and beards where still worn but usually by older men and many men began to wear clean shaven faces instead of having facial hair. 




1890's Victorian Man.
Google Sourced Image.
https://s-media-cache-ak0.pinimg.com/736x/fd/6b/df/fd6bdfd576ecef45a8a0adaaca33ac31.jpg


References 
http://www.vam.ac.uk/content/articles/h/history-of-fashion-1840-1900/
http://www.victoriana.com/Mens-Clothing/images/1841-31.jpg
https://s-media-cache-ak0.pinimg.com/originals/3c/17/d3/3c17d3e649a2798e6c63dbd5d18dd649.gif
http://www.victoriana.com/Mens-Clothing/images/mens_hats-14.jpg
http://www.photodetective.co.uk/jpegs/Bowler-A.jpg
http://www.victoriana.com/Mens-Clothing/images/1863_Victorian_men_10.jpg
https://s-media-cache-ak0.pinimg.com/236x/7d/11/36/7d113602b3e23aa78254170602156e94.jpg
https://s-media-cache-ak0.pinimg.com/236x/7d/11/36/7d113602b3e23aa78254170602156e94.jpg
https://s-media-cache-ak0.pinimg.com/736x/fd/6b/df/fd6bdfd576ecef45a8a0adaaca33ac31.jpg

Victorian Fashion for women.


To broaden my research on Victorian beauty ideals and trends, I have decided to look into women and mens fashion also, as when I am creating my character for make-up in motion I will have to consider the accessories, hairstyle and clothing I may want my model to wear to create the overall Victorian theme. 

Reading the book;

 'Victorian and Edwardian Fashions for Women 1840 to 1919'. By Kristina Harris, Copyright 1995.

Page 21 Chapter 3 '1840's Little women'.


An 1846 Fashion plate featuring a 'low corsage' dress.


The image above is taken from the book, and shows a 1840's Victorian woman wearing a 'Low corsage dress', which consists of the bell shaped hoop skirt and also the low corsage corset made from whalebone and wood. The traditional 1840's Victorian man wore, 'Tightly clinched waists, with rounded chests and flared frock-coats that gave them an hour glass figure inspired by Prince Albert. They also wore tight trousers and waistcoats, with high upstanding collars and neckties tied around them Hair was worn quite long, but sweet to the sides. Moustaches and sideburns were popular." - History of Fashion 1840- 1900 Victoria and Albert Museum, online source. 

Like Victorian women, men seemed to take pride in their appearance and clothing a lot and looked very smart and formal from day to day. Something similar between Victorian fashion for both men and women is that both outfits consist of a lot of little details and structuring to create the desired shaping of their clothes etc, waistcoats, corsets and hoop skirts. 


" The  stay extends not only over the bosom but also all over the abdomen and back down to the hips.;"The Handbook of the toilet informed its readers about the new 1841 style of corset. "Besides being garnished with Whalebone, to say nothing of an immense wooden, metal or whalebone busk... they have been growing in length... the gait of (women) is generally stiff and awkward..." 

This section from the book, explains that the new style of the 1841 corset, which consists of Whalebone and other hard man made materials that create the structure of the Victorian women's corset, was very uncomfortable and awkward to wear day to day. I feel that Victorian Women's fashion changed and developed in ways for the body of a woman to look more shapely, slim, curvy and appealing for men, but this of course was created in extreme ways. 

"Why women of the Forties thought shaping them-selves like bells made them more graceful and attractive is dubious. But in order to achieve the bell look, skirts were usually heavily lined, small bustles were often built into skirts, and dresses of heavy fabrics frequently had pads at the hip and derriere, sandwiched between the dress and its lining. By the end of the Forties, skirts grew so heavy and the extreme bell shape was so desired that skirts were often lined with stiff crinoline."





References.
'Victorian and Edwardian Fashions for Women 1840 to 1919'. By Kristina Harris, Copyright 1995.










































Saturday 30 January 2016

Victorian Beauty Ideals.




Victorians had very strange beauty ideals and were more concerned about maintaining their appearance to be accepted and admired in society. Wearing cosmetics and skincare products was scandalous and unheard of as Queen Victoria, did not support cosmetics at all and it was often compared to prostitutes and performers. The Ideal Victorian beauty was all about natural beauty and never being associated with cosmetics and products, women would order their staff or bed maids to go and purchase these products for them in secret and also hide their cosmetics in pharmaceutical packaging so that people would never know they wore make-up. Any make-up worn by Victorian women was to be very subtle and natural so they looked as if they were wearing none at all. 




Foundation, concealer and powders.

Victorian women used Lead as a concealer and also in their face powders as it had a beautiful silky full coverage finish, but Lead is deadly and overtime created serious health problems and even caused death. Zinc Oxide and white mineral powder was also used to create the perfect victorian complexion, this was a much safer method to use compared to the added Lead ingredient. Some Victorian women would paint fine blue lines on their skin to look like veins so that their skin would like perfect and almost translucent, this reminded me of the similar beauty ideas that Elizabethan women had. Some women would go to the extreme of emphasising their dark circles by using rouge lipstick under their eyes, but apparently this trend was short lived. Common ingredients used in cosmetics were;honey, rose water, belladonna, arsenic and lead. Victorian women used to also eat harmful poisonous cosmetic concoctions, such as arsenic as a 'beauty vitamin' to get most of its beauty benefits. Also similar to Elizabethan women, Victorian ladies used belladonna, citrus orange or lemon drops in their eyes to make them sparkly and doe like although it caused blindness.


Lipsticks, blushers and eyeshadows.

Eyeshadows were commonly made with lead and antimony sulphide, but most high class Victorian women would not wear this cosmetic, often the poor, prostitutes and performers who regularly wore bright coloured clothing. Victorian women created their own mascara by applying beeswax and then soot to their eyes to create the consistency of mascara.  
Also, many women enhanced their eyebrows by creating a mixture of pitch, resin and frankincense and rubbed this paste onto their brows and lashes, pitch is usually used to create road tar. Lastly, lipsticks were made with mercuric sulphide and blushes were made from beet root juice.


Victorian Rimell's Cosmetics Ad.
Image sourced from Google.
Reference Below.
Skincare and Hygiene. 

Bathing and a good skincare regime often symbolised how high your status was in society, as washing was seen as something you could only do if you could afford it. Many wealthy Victorian men and women would bathe a few times a month were as poor victorians commonly bathed once a year. Victorian women often washed and exfoliated with bran to achieve a smooth and bright looking finish to the skin, bran is the same wheat we find in cereals today.

In Victorian times, Blackheads were often known as 'Flesh worms' as many victorian men and woman were unaware of the skins functions, and it appeared as if worms were escaping the face. To get rid of these 'Flesh worms' women and men would often, steam their face and then extract the blackheads each evening. 

In the Victorian times, Whales became very popular and were often used for women clothing and cosmetic products. Whales were used for their bones to create corsets which were very popular in the Victorian period and Spermaceti, which is a wax found inside the whales head. Spermaceti would then be mixed with cold cream as it was considered great for removing make-up. 

Many cosmetic and skincare products such as face washes, bath soaps, shampoos and foundations were laced with Arsenic. This was highly poisonous and ended up killing you or making you extremely ill. Women used and consumed arsenic to achieve bright sparkly eyes and a clear complexion. Skincare toners were mixtures of water, roses, lilies and violets 



Victorian Hair.

Long thick hair with volume was considered beautiful and women often added hair pieces for more volume. Women rarely cut their hair and the most popular styles for you to wear your hair in were chignons and buns or free flowing in soft gentle curls enhanced with oils to look smooth and healthy. Men began to get rid of their long hair especially if their partners hair was long, but they kept long moustaches and beards 



Interesting facts!

- Victorian Cosmetics were called 'Embellishments' 
- A pale complexion and dark contrasting hair was deemed as attractive and ideal beauty
- Intelligence and wit was more important than appearance and beauty





References 
http://www.xovain.com/makeup/victorian-era-beauty
http://hellogiggles.com/victorian-beauty-standards/2/#read
http://beautifulwithbrains.com/2010/08/06/beauty-in-the-victorian-age/
'Rimell's cosmetic poster' http://www.peterberthoud.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2012/06/Soho-Bazaar-1893-8.jpg



Dorian Gray By Oliver Parker.


In response to collecting research on the novel 'The picture of Dorian Gray' By Oscar Wilde, I have decided to watch and analyse the film adaptation creating a small review. 

Compared to the novel I found the film version much more creatively and inspirationally interesting as everything from the London setting to the characters are much more modern.
At the beginning of the film you are introduced to the violent and dark theme of the storyline, as the scene is of Dorian Gray stabbing a body covered in blood, which you later find out to be Basil Hallward. The movie also portrays the 1890 setting well, as the characters, Dorian Gray and his house staff are all dressed in traditional Victorian clothing. In the beginning of the film there is also already a point of how desirable and popular Dorian Gray is by filming him chatting with a group of wealthy beautiful women, all flirting with him.

Basil Hallward is introduced to Dorian Gray by one of the woman surrounding him,and straight away Basil compliments his appearance and then shows him a quick portrait he drew of him whilst performing. The film is much more graphic when portraying the sins that Dorian commits at parties and private gentleman clubs, it also continuously shows drug use, smoking and excessive drinking everywhere Dorian goes. Dorian Gray even comes onto Basil as he is gay and tries to manipulate him also, knowing that Basil is attracted to him. Basil picks up on Dorian's new personality and obsessive search for pleasure and tries to stop him where as Henry embraces his behaviour and pushes it further. This creates tension between the three characters whenever together. 

The portrayal of Dorian Gray in this film is much more evil, manipulative and sly which is more fitting for the storyline but it makes you dislike him much more, where in the book he doesn't come across as so evil. Although some of the scenes in the movie are very graphic and scary to look at sometimes, it is not necessarily a horror style film but instead disturbing as it is made to look realistic. 

These are two quotes that stood out to me in the film and made me think of ways to incorporate it in a make-up look.
'Be searching always for new sensations'
'there are no limits'

The Picture of Dorian Gray By Oscar Wilde; Presentation Day.


I recently just presented my mood board inspired by my chosen novel in front of Kat and my group. I had made sure to prepare for the presentation and even made some small notes to guide myself when talking. I was first to present and naturally felt quite nervous to start off the group, I began to explain my ideas whilst showing the class my mood board and felt less nervous as I carried on.

Throughout my presentation I tended to talk a lot more about the film adaptation I had seen more then the novel By Oscar Wilde, I feel that I only did this because I got more from the film adaptation, creatively and inspirationally and struggled slightly with the language in the original novel. I feel this came across as If, I hadn't read the book in my presentation as the constructive comments given to me as feedback at the end and during the middle of my presentation from Kat, was for me to refer back the novel and the online spark notes of the novel. Also after finishing my presentation I felt disappointed whilst watching my peers presentations after as most of their created presentations were digital and mainly image based, where as I had created mine by hand and only featured images from the film adaptation.

Although I featured important information from the novel and characters on my mood board I feel that I didn't do enough in regards of showing my ideas I had thought of in response to the novel in the form of imagery, colour, meaning etc.. To improve my mood board in the future, I will read over the brief on my course again and also create a digital board, featuring any important idea no matter how big or small that will capture the overall themes and ideas I felt in response to reading the novel. 


My mood board.

My Gothic Horror Character; Dorian Gray.


For the new brief I have chosen to read 'The picture of Dorian Gray' By Oscar Wilde. I chose to read and develop ideas on this novel as I had previously seen the film adaptation of Oscar Wilde's novel and was interested in reading the orignal book and reading the original storyline. 

Storyline Breakdown of Dorian Gray.

'The picture of Dorian Gray' by Oscar Wilde is set and written in 1890 London, which is the late Victorian century. The point of view throughout the novel is third person, which I found a little confusing to keep up with but also enjoyed as it was interesting being introduced to the three main characters from that point of view, making you feel as if you were in the same room as the characters watching their every move. 

The three main characters in this novel are; 'Dorian Gray' who is the main character, 'Basil Hallward' the artist of Dorian Grays beloved portrait of himself and lastly 'Lord Henry Wotton' who is a good friend of Dorian Gray but throughout the novel, influences Dorian to behave more badly. In the beginning of the novel we are introduced to these three main characters in the story and the two friends of Dorian Gray witness Dorian promising his soul in return of eternal youth, what I found very interesting in this part of the novel was the different reactions from Basil and Henry. Throughout the book I feel that Basil and Henry almost influence Dorian as if they are his own Jekyll and Hyde, although Dorian persists to live the scandalous and sinful lifestyle. 

Throughout the novel, Dorian Gray commits sinful acts daily, and every time he does so, his actions begin to show on his beautiful portrait of himself. His portrait begins to decay, rot and bleed evil and ugliness, I feel that this symbolises Dorian conscience that he once had and now doesn't care about as all he searches for in life is pleasure. Dorian Gray did have a first love in the Novel who was the beautiful actress 'Sibyl Vane'. Sibyl Vane was deeply in love with Dorian and dedicated her life to their relationship, Dorian Gray fell in love with Sibyl because of her beauty and ability to act and this began to change when Sibyl decided to end her career because she felt she could no longer act as if she was in love, when she deeply, truly was in real life with Dorian. This leads to Sibyl committing suicide from a broken heart as in the novel Dorian's feelings and love for Sybil change and diminish. 

After Dorian ends his relationship with Sibyl, his obsessive actions to find pleasure from sinful acts increase immensely. In an attempt to be a good friend and help Dorian Gray, his friend Basil Hallward confronts Dorian Gray and expresses that he is worried about Dorian Gray and his change of person, this leads to Dorian Gray murdering Basil Hallward and feeding his monster even more. Towards the end of the novel Dorian Gray attempts to confide in Lord Henry Wotton, telling his about his feelings and what he has become, leading Dorian to stab his own portrait, killing himself. 

Conclusion of the novel and my character. 

I found the novel overall very interesting and held a dramatic and creepy theme throughout the story of Dorian's sins. Throughout the novel, you follow Dorian on his path to self destruction and begin to observe the monster he is becoming, as evertytime a sin is made it is reflected on his portrait not effecting Dorian whatsoever only encouraging his monster more. I feel that the novel explores the fine line between temptation and morals and how the promise of eternal youth caused Dorian Gray to become this evil person. 

Throughout the novel I feel that Dorian Gray is portrayed as first a handsome, innocent, adonis who is loved in society and lives a very good life, but as the story develops Dorian Gray is portrayed as a heartless, obsessive narcissist who only cares about his appearance and his personal desires and fantasies. I have chosen to create my character on Dorian Gray, as he inspired me the most throughout the novel creatively, I really like the idea of creating a character that becomes more insane and ugly every time they feed the monster inside of them, as it symbolises how powerful greed and pleasure is. As a make-up look I first plan to experiment with some designs and create a look that makes Dorian appear still as handsome and perfect but there is something not quite right about him, similar to how women felt about Dorian in the book because he never aged. 


References. 
http://www.sparknotes.com/lit/doriangray/facts.html
http://www.sparknotes.com/lit/doriangray/characters.html

Tuesday 26 January 2016

Sues Session - Ageing Make-up and Latex.


Today was our first practical lesson of the new semester 'Gothic Horror' and I enjoyed the studio session a lot as Sue spoke and demonstrated 'Ageing make-up' and the use of Latex. Sue began by talking to us all about Ageing make-up and the different techniques available to create wrinkles and mature skin of all ages. The key of ageing- makeup is to make it look subtle and some factors to consider are your models skin, age, skin tone, character if they are an actor etc. After Sue gave us a demonstration of what we were set to practice, we paired up and tried it out ourselves. 

When ageing the skin we concentrated on the hands and eye area, to create wrinkles and flaking skin, also I attempted to age my partners skin on her face with the use of shading and highlighting subtly. Before applying latex it is vital that the skin is completely clean from any product, after the skin is prepped you then apply a barrier cream which allows the latex product to stick better onto the skin. 
Before applying the latex, I first asked my model to make some silly and extreme expressions with her face so that the natural wrinkles, dips and hollows of the face were more prominent, giving me a better idea of where to stretch the skin and then apply the latex. I began practicing on my models hand, I first began cleansing and priming the skin and then stretching the skin tight enough so that the latex would be flat enough when I begin to layer. Using a feathering technique I applied the latex whilst holding the skin in a stiple motion and then used a hairdryer to dry each layer I built up. I feel that the finished effect of the skin was a very realistic and creepy to touch. After Sue examined what I had done she then suggested I pinch and pull at the skin a little to add more texture which made the skin on the hand begin to flake and pierce. 




 


After practicing on my models hand I moved onto experimenting around her eye area, I chose an area  of skin from the corner of her eye, asking her to squint as well so that I had a better idea of where to apply to latex. It is important that your model keeps their eyes closed at all times when working on the eye area because of latex and its potent smell. You also have to be gentle around the eye area as although you want to stretch the skin the skin around that area is very delicate. Applying latex to the eye area was on of my favourite techniques to practice, I found it really easy to do and the effect you created was very realistic. I decided to try and add extra wrinkles and colours with my supra colour palette onto the latex wrinkles I had made and some sun spots too. 






















Tools and Products used
Orange stiple sponge (good for fine edges)
Normal cosmetic sponge (with straight edges)
Non Coloured Latex
Old age stiple (Latex base with colour)
Apron 
Kryolan foundation palette 
Aqua color palette 
Supra color palette 
Makeup Brushes 
Concealer palette 
Translucent powder 
Barrier cream 

Health and Safety 
Wear old clothing when working with liquid latex and protect your models clothes with an apron 
Make sure the room is well ventilated as the Liquid Latex is potent, can effect you and your model
When applying Liquid latex around the eye area make sure to get model to keep their eyes closed until dry 
Make sure all make-up brushes/tools are clean 
Make sure your hands are sanitised properly and products are clean (cross contamination)
Assess models skin if necessary considering any irritation or issues with their skin 
If models reacts in response to products badly (Allergies) remove immediately 





-When working with Latex it is important to be in a well ventilated room, as it has a very potent smell. 

-Make sure that your model and yourself are correctly dressed and protected from any latex being used.

-Make sure that the lid to the Latex is put back on between using, to prevent any spillage or accidents.

-You can add color to the latex you are using, by mixing it with powdered and liquid or cream colour, this is important to consider when working of different skin tones and also considering the different tones in the skin when color matching. 

-When removing Latex from the skin you should use warm water.

-You can blend out the edges of latex on the skin by using acetone and cotton buds.

-When creating layers on the skin it is best to bring each layer further out to prevent hard edges.

-Applying latex the lips with a stiple sponge creates a dry skin effect on the lips.

-When creating a colour to apply over latex it is important to consider the different tones and features, veins, blues, reds, pinks, freckles, sun spots, scars etc, so that the skin looks at realistic as possible.


I really enjoyed creating ageing make-up and I feel that it made me think of some ideas to play with when creating my gothic horror character inspired by Dorian Gray.