Depictions of Beauty in the Victorian era

Whilst collecting some research on Victorian Beauty Ideals I stumbled across this really informative website called '123Helpme.com', I found this website really interesting and helpful when exploring Victorian History as it had examples of poetry and writing from the Victorian Era. The poetry and writing below, perfectly describes the beauty ideals of men and women and even discusses the portrayal of men in Gothic Horror. I found this particularly important as I had only found blogs and historical sites, which discuss portraying women in Gothic Horror in a certain light. 


Pale with the golden beam of an eyelash dead on the cheek,    
 Passionless pale, cold face, star-sweet on a gloom profound; 
Womanlike, taking revenge to deep for a transient wrong 
Done but in thought to your beauty, and ever as pale as before 
Growing and fading and growing upon me without a sound, 
Luminous, gemlike, ghostlike, deathlike . . .

 As these lines show, Victorians would reduce a beautiful woman to a corpse, and as such is no longer dangerous because "[I]t has ceased to be a body in any sexual sense . . . a safely pallid corpse" (Birch 111). 

- Women were expected to look 'pale and interesting', make-up was unheard of  

-Women wanted Luminous, clear, extremely pale skin (some even painted on veins to appear paler)

- Men preferred women being pale, no make-up smart hair as they wanted their women to be smart and not obsessed with their looks, some men even wanted to be with women smarter than themselves 

- This obsession with Women looking pale, plain and interesting probably increased and developed even more due to the Victorians obsession with Death, and the Quote above by '(Birch 111)' discusses how Victorians' 'Reduced a woman to a corpse, and as such is no longer dangerous because it has been ceased to be a body in a sexual sense... a safely pallid corpse'. I found this quote interesting yet disturbing too because it began to make me think of how objectified women were even with or without make-up and provocative clothing, no matter how these women dressed with a brain or not they were sexually desirable because of their body shape and this explains why women were portrayed as 'weak' and a damsel in distress pushed into 'unavoidable situations' because they were women and their bodies were seen as 'distracting' and 'unavoidable' 
          

Victorian novels also produced interesting contradictions of male beauty. Abartis describes the typical (Gothic) hero in general terms as "strong and handsome" (257). Perhaps most popular was the "beautiful beast" the Byronic hero: dark, brooding, and full of "sexual energy" (Gilbert 338). Based, of course, on the adventurous and dangerously hedonistic (and therefore very exciting) Lord Byron, this convention characterized what Lefkovitz terms the "middle class ideal" (148). A typical Bryonic hero has a nontraditional moral code as well as rather a rather rugged, even savage appearance. In Jane Eyre, Rochester is in many ways Byronic (he looks like a "monster," he attempts bigamy) which in its unconventionality makes him an ideal match for the also unconventional (plain) Jane. Or as Lefkovitz says, "Bronte appeals to the literary tradition to sanction their beauty and to undermine the beauty of her conventionally attractive, but unappealing, characters" (148). Although the Byronic hero was very popular, other male conventions persisted, including that based on classical Greek beauty. 

- Women in Gothic Horror are made to appear 'Weak' 'scared' but still 'tempting' and 'appealing' 
-Men in Gothic Horror are portrayed to be 'Powerful' 'Beastly 'Dangerous but still handsome and sometimes an Ideal match for a woman
- A man portrayed in Gothic Horror is made to be  appealing and attractive in a unconventional way, still carrying that stereotype and sexist attitude towards the discrimination of Women

Citations 
MLA Citation:
"Depictions of Beauty in the Victorian Era." 123HelpMe.com. 05 Feb 2016 
    <http://www.123HelpMe.com/view.asp?id=23067>.

Face Chart ideas for my character Dorian Gray.

These are some face charts I have recently created, I wanted to play with some colour and create some visual ideas I had in mind for the make-up of my character. I don't think there is anything too amazing about these charts but they are a good start to my character ideas. My reasoning for not liking these designs too much is because I feel that are very predictable in regards of the use of the different colours to symbolise Dorian Gray's Portrait throughout Oscar Wilde's novel. 

Chart 1.

This chart was heavily inspired by Dorian Grays' portrait in my chosen novel and also by bruising and dirt. When creating this design I wanted the feature of colour to only be visible when looking at the make-up from a certain angle almost like an optical illusion, I struggled to create this on the actual design sheet the way I wanted to because of the style of face chart. I want the feature of colour to appear on the skin as if it was a slit or open wound full of colour, this face chart is almost the opposite of the portrait throughout the novel, making Dorian look bad on the exterior with colour trying to escape the skin. I added dirt to this chart as I liked the brownish tint and dusty effect it leaves on the skin, making the person look ill, unhealthy and disheveled. 

Chart 2.

This is my favourite chart out of the two, as for me the design looks more complete because there are two areas on the face the feature colour. I wanted the features of colour in this make-up look to be applied in brush strokes that the face looks like a canvas, I would also incorporate moulding wax as scars underneath these areas of colour so that they could symbolise open wounds slit open and paint and blood is escaping the body. This make-up look could explore the consequences Dorian Gray would have faced if his ability to covert his sins to his portrait, backfired. 

Early Victorian Hairstyles, Studio session with Helen.

In today's hair session with Helen, we looked at some the origin of Victorian hair for men and women and also recreated some hair from portraiture. I found this session really enjoyable as I had become curious of the techniques Victorians used to create these immaculate and neat hairstyles. In this semester my aim is to improve my previous grade and this means I am concentrating a lot on perfecting and improving my techniques in styling. Helen began the session by showing us a short presentation of imagery showing Victorian, hats and hairstyles and the change through the years. I had already begun researching hairstyles prior to the session but my main focus is on the hairstyling of men as my Gothic Horror character is Dorian Gray. I feel slightly anxious about having to find a male model and then continuously practice hairstyles on them, as I am yet to find someone yet. 


Taking inspiration from a portrait of Queen Victoria on her wedding day, we began to re create her wedding hairstyle. Compared to early Victorian Hairstyles for women, Queen Victoria preferred braiding and plaits in their hair instead of curls. 

Portrait of Queen Victoria on her Wedding day 1840.
Image Sourced from Google.
http://thedreamstress.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/04/Queen_Victoria.jpg

The portrait above is of Queen Victoria on her wedding day, this is the same portrait we analysed and then re created in the session. In this portrait I can analyse the styling of the hair as Early Victorian and the hair Queen Victoria is wearing has the same traits as beginning Victorian Hair without the curls. The hair is centred in a quite flat and smooth, immaculate parting, making the hair follow and cover the shape of the top of her forehead,there is a intense sleekness throughout the hairstyle with no hair out of place. The hair is formed into two side plaits wrapped into buns on either side of her face around her ears. Its strange to think this was worn on a wedding day as I would consider this quite a protective and formal hairstyle then a romantic wedding day hairstyle. Although, I feel this hairstyle works well for Queen Victoria as she was Queen and had to look a little more conservative on her wedding day compared to traditional/normal brides. She appears to be wearing some form of flowers near the back/side section of her hair, this makes the hair seem more romantic and for a special occasion.

Creating the hair-

To recreate this hairstyle, we began to section the hair into three, making one large section for a neat bun at the back and then two sections at the front, starting just at the top of the ears. Firstly, we created the bun by taking the back section, brushing it out so that is was sleek and knot free and then putting it into a ponytail. To finish the bun I started to plait my ponytail and then once fully plaited, began to wrap it around itself continuously until it formed into a bun shape, I then secured the bun with bobby pins.

Moving on, we began to create the side plaits in the hair, we began by taking one parted section from the front of the head and began plaiting the hair in a downwards direction making sure all of the hair sat against the face so that it appeared sleek and flat against the head once secured. This is a technique I ended up concentrating on and practicing throughout the lesson as I couldn't get the hang on making the plait sit flat against the head. I asked Helen for more support after practicing my first one and she really helped me improve and making it easier for myself. I had many attempts and finally made a plait I was happy with, securing it just under the ear and into the back on the bun we had first made. After finishing this look, we also practiced creating 'Barley curls', these are fat, curly short/long curls that sat inwards next to the face. We created these by using taking small sections from our front partings and then using heated tongs to curl the hair in the direction of the face, I found this simple and easy to do. Helen also gave me a tip which would help secure the hair against the face more, by either using a little bit of wax and slick and secure the hair and by also using one of the wide tooth clips and then discreetly pinning the hair and hiding the clip, this worked well also. 

Attempt 1 

Attempt 2 

Attempt 3 

Attempt 4

Barley curls 

Barley Curls

Early Victorian Hair, Helens Studio session - Notes.

Queen Victoria on her wedding day.
Google sourced image.
http://thedreamstress.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/04/Queen_Victoria.jpg

Queen Victoria on her wedding day- In this portrait Queen Victoria appears to have very sleek hair, low plaited buns, immaculate and neat sectioning, no curls, detailing in the hair is framed around the face.

During the 1840's women hairstyles changed and the hair became much more softer, lower, still had the same neat sectioning, women still wore buns and also when the hair was sectioned there began to be a occurring trend where the hair was sectioned neatly as usual but more into a 'V shape'.

Early Hairstyles -

Early Victorian Women usually wore their hair in an 'Apollo Knot'.

The image above is a portrait (artist unknown) of a traditional early Victorian woman, with her hair styled into a 'Apollo Knot'.
Image sourced from google.
http://www.behindballet.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/01/apollobun_blog.jpg

The hair in this image is styled into a Apollo Knot, normally worn by many Victorian women . This hairstyle appears very structured, compact, tight, It has immaculate parting in the scalp sectioning the tight barrel curls created and also a tight bun on top of the head formed from plaits. In the Pre Victorian times, hats were a elaborate part to a Victorian women's and men's outfit, Victorians were very particular about the little details and took a lot of pride in their appearance. At the beginning of Victorian years, women hats became Bonnets instead. Bonnets were usually very detailed and tailor made and framed and emphasised the shaping of the face. Ringlets, plaits, buns, curls and interact hairstyles all tended to fit perfectly under bonnets and even mens Headwear.


Throughout time, the traditional Victorian hairstyle for women is still sectioned immaculately and neat but looser in curls, framing and hanging softly around the face.
The first photographs were taken around the 1820's, Victorians adored photography and felt it captured their culture, development and history for future Victorians to see.
Tong heaters and moustache curlers were used to style the hair into curls etc, these were usually warmed up with hot stones and fire, these heated hair tools became more popular towards the late Victorian century.
Victorians were moralistic, obscure and religious. Make-up was unheard of and women were preferred to have a 'Pale and interesting' look instead of done up with make-up, cosmetics were only associated with performers and prostitutes.
Helen advised us to consider time and also situation of our character when creating Victorian Hairstyles, this was helpful as I began to think of the condition and age of which I want my character to portray.

Mens Hairstyles-
Side burns, parted sectioned and long, curly, fluffy hair was commonly worn by many Victorian men, similar to the same styles as Women. Many men wore there hair messy on occasion but as long as they had an immaculate parting and some neat formation of the hair, it would look as if it was styled. Compared to modern hairstyles for men today, there is not much difference as many young men have begun growing long hair and beards to style into buns and other styles.




I found this information, provided my Helen very informative and helpful when considering the terms, and reasonings of particular hairstyles for Victorian men and women. In response to this session I plan to complete the set homework but also further my research I have collected, looking more at the hair products, changes in hairstyling and origins of trends. 

Kats seminar

In my most recent seminar with Kat, she discussed more Victorian historical context and Gothic Horror literature and its origins.  I found the seminar interesting and informative but also a lot to take in, In response to the seminar I have already begun to collect research on Queen Victoria and the Industrial and French revolution as this is something that influenced the rise of Gothic Horror novels and literature. 

Notes from the seminar -

- The key themes of Victorian Gothic Horror are; Sinister, Supernatural, Horror Medevial, Architecture style 

- The Georgians fell in love with Gothic Horror and became obsessed with Death
-Key Motifs in In Gothic Horror are; 
-Sexual Power
-Strange Places
-Clashing time periods
-Power and constraints 
-The Uncanny
-The Sublime
-Crisis
-The Supernatural and the real terror and wonder
(The above factors are elements to consider when creating research and Gothic horror character)

-Many Gothic Horror Authors were inspired by architecture (Gothic) and also the place time and landscape of a building and place
-Women in 19th and 18th century were portrayed as vulnerable in Gothic Horror novels and 'Forced into situations'
-The Uncanny term from Sigfred and Roid, Uncanny moments for readers of the novel (Uncanny, 'figures that are not quite normal').
-The Sublime is terrifying, awesome and chaotic
-The Supernatural and the real are ghosts, devils, naturalistic explanations
- Authors found architecture inspiring and scary as the castle itself becomes a character, an unescapable labyrinth, 'unavoidable situations' 

The above notes discuss how many Authors of Gothic Horror Novels became inspired when writing their novels and also creating their inhumane, terrifying characters in their novels, which were actually loosely based on their environment they live in and the people that interact with in real life.

-Monastries and castles (Religion and architecture) both become labyrinth; Darkness, trap doors, scenarios with no maps, scenarios of imprisonment, claustrophobia and being buried alive (Edgar Allen Poe) 
-Castles, Gothic,Dracula all creates an image 

Something I found most interesting about this seminar was that I learnt how lots of different authors had stories and fears stemmed from Gothic architecture, locations and even their own personal issues. This makes Gothic Horror literature become much more deep and psychological then just forming and creating a character based off of something already terrifying, its as if these Authors created these horror characters from their own personal anxieties, fears and issues. For me I feel that this makes the novel more disturbing and scary as it is inspired by something real and something that creates real scared, disturbed, spooked emotions.

Meanings 
- Socially means persistence of the past
-Phycological means you cannot escape yourself and we are doomed to explore the labyrinth, this recesses on ones mind
-'Finding our fears' phycological and social issues

There was a new approach towards nature and the wild power of nature, sublime nature is best enjoyed at a distance, etc art as it is wild and dangerous.

-Powers, constraints and nightmares 

Ann Radcliffe the mysteries of Uldopho 18th century Author, this author was very popular with young girls who were discouraged to read these type of novels

-Britain's obsessions with Gothic Horror was boosted by the French revolution, creating more anxiety, terror and scandal, corruption of civilisation
-French and industrial revolution impacted on the boost of Gothic Horror novels also,
Change of landscapes, brought new anxieties, factories were worked in day and night 
- Science, factories, electricity science destroyed wonder and spiritual dimension because of explanations 
-Mind control 'Independent of the body', mind became the greatest terror, etc 'Jekyll and Hyde', 'Confessions of an Opium Eater'. 

-People had to move to the city and live and work, the city boosted new anxieties to the working class etc violence, robbery. This conveyed Gothic Novels portraying anxieties through characters
-Queen Victoria was obsessed with death, she mourned for over 40 years when her husband Prince Albert passed away, only dressing in Black

Victorian Mourning Traditions -

-Curtains were drawn 
-Clocks were stopped at time of Death 
-'Wake', Bodies were watched at all times until buried
-Photographs and dead masks were produced of the dead 
-Houses were filled with momentos 
-Victorian post mortem photography, Dressing and photographing dead people
- Gothic Revival is about celebrating the 'past' death
Victorian Spirit Photography
- Using double exposure to create spirit like effects in photographs 

Cuts, Bruises Wounds and Scars - Studio Session with Sue.

In my most recent studio session with Sue, I got the chance to experiment with special effects products and re-create some gruesome fake injuries. I really enjoyed the session and the new techniques I have learnt. After the session I felt really inspired to create some face charts with a special effects theme, that I could then experiment with for my Gothic Horror character,Dorian Gray. This style of make-up artistry is something I felt very comfortable with in regards to creating the injuries, I feel that you can be much for messy and creative as you want to make it look as realistic as possible. Something I plan to do in response to todays session also is to practice the two other looks I was unable to create today as we had run out of time. 

We set up our areas and equipment as usual and Sue began to explain todays session aims and also what products we were expected to use and how. Something important about the products we were using in this session was, that the products all contained particular chemicals which meant you had to be careful when applying and removing the products. 

The products and tools used;

- Supra colour; this can be used to skin match and colour the skin and wounds

- Stiple sponge; this sponge can be used to break up the colour and apply liquid and scab blood

-Non Flexible Colodian; this creates burns and scarring 

-Moulding wax; this can be used to create scarring and using sealer or latex on top of moulding wax will help prolongs the amount of time wax can be worn undisturbed

-Liquid latex; this can create wrinkling, peeling, holes in skin and also used as a protectant for moulding wax

-Metal rounded spatula; used to dispatch products 

-Tuplax; this product can be used to create scratches

-Wound filler; wound filler can be used to fill cuts and intensify blood

-Fixer spray; this can be sprayed over bruises to protect and prolong them

-Acetone; acetone can be used to blend away the edges of moulding wax etc scars, slits

-Colodian; colodian can be used to create scratches, this can be loosened up with alcohol and supra colour 

-Protective seal foam; you can apply this to the skin before using colodian as colodian can cause a itchy burning sensation on the skin 

Products Used 

Colodian 
Protective Seal Foam 
Wound Filler 
Liquid Latex
Tuplax
Fixer Spray 
Moulding Wax 
Non flexible colodian 
Acetone 
Supra colour palette 
Moisturiser
Witch Hazel 

Health and Safety 

Wear old clothing when working with liquid latex and protect your models clothes with an apron 
Make sure the room is well ventilated as the Liquid Latex is potent, can effect you and your model
When applying Liquid latex around the eye area make sure to get model to keep their eyes closed until dry 
Make sure all make-up brushes/tools are clean 
Make sure your hands are sanitised properly and products are clean (cross contamination)
Assess models skin if necessary considering any irritation or issues with their skin 
If models reacts in response to products badly (Allergies) remove immediately 
Remove all products correctly 
Take care around the eye area, mouth and any open wounds when applying products 
Make sure to remove collodian with spirit gum remover and cotton bud 
Make sure not to inhale the collodian and take care when applying it to your model, applying barrier cream first 

Sues Demo -

Sue began by taking a small amount of moulding wax, warm up the wax in your hands and then apply it onto the skin with a spatula. I found wax fine to work with as I had used some on the products before in a pervious course. You can clean up the edges with moisturiser and a cotton bud or with acetone. This moisturiser tip that can clean up the edges is a tip from Sue that I found really helpful and created a smooth seamless finish to the wax making it appear more skin like. After the wax is smooth and finished you can then begin to create your slit or scar by taking a spatula and creating a small opening (line) through your wax. After this you can dip a brush or baby bud into some liquid latex, apply one layer over your wax, doing this will protect and prevent your wax from moving. 

Colodian can be used to create old type burns; you first apply to protective foam and then stretch the skin of your chosen area. Whilst still stretching the skin apply the colodian, you can either air dry or dry to product with a dryer and then begin to squeeze and manipulate the product making the skin appear scarred and glossy. You can create deep cut effects by moving the product with a pin and you can also paint over and layer colodian with tissue also as it begins to pucker and stick together creating a 'keloid' texture to the skin. 

By using Tuplax you can create instant scarring by applying to product to the skin, powder over the product and then once dry creates a scarring effect.  

Stiple with brushes over the wounds can also break up colours etc blood. 

Mixing alcohol and supra colour and then flicking the product of a foundation brush onto skin/wounds breaks up the would, this technique can also be used to create and enhance freckles. You can also decorate wounds with wound filler and liquid blood, shine from the blood gives depth to the wound, words can also be decorated with fullers earth and dirt.

This is the scar I created in the session, I used moulding wax, latex, liquid and wound filler.
I found the scar really fun and easy to make and I felt very confident blending out the edges of my wax scar and was really happy with the outcome. I feel that when I practice creating scars from wax in the future I will experiment by creating the desired skin colour of wax by mixing supra colours and foundation whilst warming up the wax.
 

The next time I experiment with these techniques again I aim to create bruising on the face and also a more severe scar where I can decorate the wound of dirt and wax also. 


Experimenting with Collodian was a lot of fun too, I made a red, sore looking burn from tissue and collodian. I first prepped the skin by applying barrier cream, after the skin was ready I began applying tissue and collodian to the skin so that texture began to appear as lifting/extra skin on my models skin. Once the collodian had dried properly (clear) I then began to colour my burn using a supra colour palette and bruise wheel, I broke up the colors with moisturiser so that it appeared more realistic and shiny and then also added on Vaseline afterwards so that the scar looked more sore and realistic. I was very happy with the outcome of my burn and feel fairly confident at creating them. When removing Collodian you must use spirit gum remover. 

Collodian Burn. 

https://i.ytimg.com/vi/ToN-732aOJ0/maxresdefault.jpg

http://images.wisegeek.com/large-bruise.jpg

The Reign of Queen Victoria.

The late Queen Victoria was born at Kensington Palace, London and she was born as the only daughter of Edward, Duke of Kent the fourth son of George III. Shortly after he father died she became heir to the throne. She became Queen at the very young age of 18 and apparently had a strong love for painting and drawing. Queen Victoria is associated with Britain's great Industrial revolution, economic development and her entire empire. 

In the beginning of Queen Victoria's reign she was heavily influenced by Prince Albert, who was her late husband she married in 1840 and also her first Prime Minister, Lord Melbourne. Both of these men influenced Queen Victoria, guiding and 'teaching' her how to rule in a 'Constitutional Monarchy'. Prince Albert was best remembered for his participation with the  Great Exhibition of 1851 which created a large enough profit to invest into the South Kensington museum complex in London. 

Image of the court at South Kensington Museum Complex London.
South Kensington Museum Complex London.
Google sourced image.
http://www.british-history.ac.uk/sites/default/files/publications/pubid-343/images/fig38.gif



Whist married to Prince Albert, Queen Victoria had nine children between 1840 and 1857, many of her children were married off to other royal families across Europe. Queen Victoria was very much in love with her husband Prince Albert and after his passing, she fell into deep depression. Prince Albert passed away at age 42 in 1861, Queen Victoria lost both a husband and a trusted adviser that supported her throughout her reign. In response to her husbands passing, she continuously wore the colour black for over 40 years. 

Queen Victoria and Prince Albert 1854, fourteen years after their marriage.
Google sourced image.
http://i.telegraph.co.uk/multimedia/archive/02101/victoria-albert_2101024b.jpg 

Due to her mourning and depression  after the loss of her husband Queen Victoria, was rarely in the public eye until the late 1860's, still taking on the responsibilities as Queen continuing to give audiences for her ministers and officials visitors, but not resume her full public life. During Queen Victoria's reign seven unsuccessful attempts of her life were made, between 1840 and 1882, this strengthen and increased her popularity throughout the British nation as she always upheld a courageous attitude each time. 



References. 
http://www.royal.gov.uk/historyofthemonarchy/kingsandqueensoftheunitedkingdom/thehanoverians/victoria.aspx