Coraline Collaboration

I recently did a collaboration with a fashion student called Shanika Reid. The concept of the collaboration was based on Coraline, and this is something that instantly interested me when she posted her ideas onto the Solent fashion network. I wanted to do this collaboration because I wanted to be productive and be more active as a make-up artist, I really enjoyed the concept and felt it was really creative. When we communicated before hand the shoot, she had provided me with a couple of mood boards yet she said she was very flexible and open to any ideas and tweaks I wanted to make. Shanika was lovely to work with and encouraged me to recreate her vision she had in mind with my ideas in mind also. I did lots of research and practice before hand the shoot, practicing on her model twice before the day of the shoot and then also watching numerous Coraline make-up tutorials, film scenes and also looking at pictures of Coraline's mother as she was the character I was going to create from Coraline. I felt confident before hand the shoot and was excited to create the makeup on the day. I brought Becky along and she assisted me with the hair and make-up. The shoot went well and Shainka was happy with the outcome, asking me to collaborate again in the future. 

Helens studio session - Ageing the hair.

In my most recent hair session Helen, demonstrated how we could age the hair of our character with a few different techniques. I found this session interesting and liked the different effects you can create, although I don't think I will add this effect to my own character as It doesn't fit the period of my character I want to create. 

Notes 
-There are different ways to make the hair white 
-The illustrator palette from Charles Fox is good to use when wanting to add white to the hair (this product activates with alcohol)
-You can also use aqua colour, water and a mascara wand to subtly make the hair appear white/grey
-Using off white/neutral colours counteract the blue tint of white 
-Apply white subtly and in small sections
-Separate pieces of hair (randomly) put piece of card/paper underneath the hair and sprayer over the hair with white 
-Dry shampoo can be used to create a white/ grey tint on the hair, this also creates a powdery, dust finish to the hair (texture)

Google Sourced Image.
Example of subtle grey hair

The image above best describes the subtle grey tint that Helen created on a dolls head during the session. I really like this effect and think it looks really effective when the same white tint is sprayed over facial hair too.

I practiced creating white hair on my dolls head, by using some white aqua colour on a mascara wand, I liked the outcome and thought it looked really effective. I plan to re practice this again on real hair though as I had lost the image I took in the session.

Products Used
-Dry Shampoo
-Aqua colour
-Hairspray
-Supra colour
-Mascara wands

Finding a Model.

I recently finally found a Male model for the continuity assessment, I struggled to find anyone at first as people had other commitments, but thanks to a few contacts i managed to find a male model. I am very happy as I feel he has the ideal hair and facial features for my character Dorian Gray. I have made sure to communicate with my model and plan to practice my hair and face designs next week on my model before hand the assessment so that i'm ready for the day. I advised him not exfoliate and also not too wash his hair beforehand the assessment as the hair styles better with natural oils and a little grease. I also asked him to bring in a smart white t-shirt and blazer/waist coat so that he can be complete character for the assessment. I am considering exfoliating my models face on the day of the assessment so that the skin is even and smooth and I can avoid any dryness, this will make my models base easier to apply creating the finish i want. I know there is a risk of my model getting spots, but that is why i plan to do it on the day of the assessment so that the skin will have a week to recover if it does pull out any blemishes in the skin. I am going to ask Sue for her opinion in regards of exfoliating just to be sure. 

Sues Session - Dirt, Yellow teeth and practicing our ideas.

In my recent make-up session with Sue she demonstrated how to create some other effects for our character ideas. I enjoyed this session and adapted my final design in response to some of the new techniques I had learnt. I enjoyed playing with fullers earth and creating yellow teeth the most, and plan to order some of these products so that I can create the same effects on my character. 

Notes.

- Keep make-up simple and focus on continuity
-Consider the hair around the face
-Kryolan tooth enamel/ or Nicotene speckled on the teeth can create a yellow tooth effect
(makes them look rotten)
-Make sure the tooth is completely dry before applying yellow enamel, you can use a cotton bud to apply the enamel onto the tooth
- Always apply enamel to the teeth, with your models mouth open, making sure the enamel is dry before closing their mouth
-To remove tooth enamel, use surgical spirit and a cotton bud
- Fullers earth can be used to make the hair, face and clothes appear dirty/ashy/muddy
-You can mix fullers earth with water (creates a dark and muddy texture) 
-You can dry out fullers earth, this creates a breakable, cracked texture
-Fullers earth can be coloured over wet or dry (sprayed over)
- Kryolan coloured hairspray or Brandell (grey/black coloured spray) creates a grey/ashy tint to the hair
-You can grease down the hair with brill cream (hair gel)
- Mixing water with liquid blood creates a splattered blood effect when sprayed (more gore/scary)
-You can dry fullers earth with a warm/cool hairdryer 
-Using a Menthol tear stick underneath the eyes, makes the eyes water (tear/wet effect)
-Food colouring can tint the tongue (this can be used to make a black/dirty tongue 
-Analyse your model, considering any blemishes, redness, scarring and moles on the skin(continuity)
-Tooth lacquer can be applied with a makeup brush, you have to work with the product quickly, you can also stiple the product onto the teeth creating more texture and realism 
-Grease hands/knuckles etc then bend the skin/Body part Underneath nails and around fingers 
-Make sure the hair and face go together as a whole 

After Sue demonstrated a few new techniques, I began to practice one of my character designs on my peer Toby. I had brought a face chart with me that I wanted to practice during the session, although I ended up combing my design with the techniques Sue taught us as I wanted to try both during the session so, i'd say the final outcome I created was more inspired by my design. 

Dorian Gray 'Portrait' Inspired chart.

I first began practicing my look by creating my base on Toby, I cleansed, prepped and primed the skin and then began to colour match his skin tone. Although I coloured matched the correct skin tone for Toby, I wanted the skin to be paler for my character design so I combined illamasqua Skin with the kryloan foundation which created the base I wanted. I was happy with the application and felt the base was smooth, but Toby's skin was quite dry so a lot of dead skin and redness interfered with the application of the base, although I am glad I had the chance to test this as Men's skin is very different and normally dryer than women's skin. During the continuity assessment I am going to use a generous amount of moisturiser and primer on my male models skin, I am considering exfoliating the skin on the day also so that It is softer and more even, I know there is a risk my model may get spots after this but his skin will have a week to recover, I am going to ask Sue for her opinion. 

After creating my base, I wanted to subtly contour the face so that the face appeared more hollow but I wanted it to be a cooler, greyish tone colour to contour with as I wanted my character to look sick, pale and ghostly. To achieve this, I used a grey tone eyeshadow from my Ben nye eyeshadow palette and began to sculpt the face with a blusher brush. I brought the grey tint up around the temples, ears and forehead so that their was a grey tint all over the skin. During the continuity assessment I think I will bring the base down the neck and ears so that it doesn't look unfinished, I will also lightly contour underneath my models chin and jawline area. I was happy with the outcome and felt it made his skin appear ill and ghostly. I wanted this effect on my character because I imagine him during the Gothic Novel to have porcelain, perfect, almost translucent skin and facial features like a God. I want to create the same look only a scary, tired, worn out version of Dorian Gray were his make-up and hair symbolise the toll his subconscious is taking on him.

After creating my base I began to create the effects I wanted, I applied fullers earth, Liquid blood mixed with water, nose and scar wax, and supra colour and Tooth enamel to Toby. I was sharing Toby with another peer as we both had male models for our continuity assessment, this is why I'm only photographing one side of his face. I first created a bruised black eye on Toby, using my surpra colour palette and ben nye Bruise wheel, I wanted to create a severe black bruise as If he was just attacked, I brought the bruise out to the side of his nose and also the inner eye area, I wanted the bruise too look really big and extreme. After creating the bruise I began to practice creating a yellow tooth, taking some cryogen tooth enamel and a cotton bud I began applying some of the product to the teeth. After applying the yellow tint I applied some black tooth enamel also so that I could create a rotting effect on the tooth, I stipled the black enamel over the yellow. 

After experimenting with the tooth enamel, I wanted to try fullers earth. Taking a bowl and some fullers earth I added a small amount of water and began to mix the powder so that It became thicker in texture. Once it was ready i began to smear the fullers earth onto the side of Tobys face, using a makeup brush at first but then using my fingers instead which was better. On my original design, I had planned to create some extra skin on the face with some nose and scar wax, on the face design I had planned to create this on the eyebrow area and also the side of the mouth, but as I had already created a black eye on Toby I adapted this. 
Instead I applied the wax to his forehead, so that it  appeared as If Toby had a bad, bloody gash. After creating my gash I added some scab blood and liquid blood mixed with water so that it looked like blood had just splattered on his face. I think effects like splattered blood, is one of my favourite techniques and it tells a story in itself as you wonder if its their blood or the some one else's. After I had practiced a few techniques I wanted to try combining it with my design, I added some supra colours over the blood and fullers earth on the skin, this was so I could incorporate colours into the look symbolising the portrait of Dorian Gray. 

I was happy with the outcome of my look and felt more confident after the lesson, it was helpful being able to practice and properly analyse the effects I was creating so that I practice for the continuity assessment. I feel I need to work on the placement of my effects and i plan to properly practice my final design next week on my male model. I want to make sure I concentrate and perfect the application of the makeup during the continuity assessment as this is something Sue spoke about in feedback from the first semester. I have spoken to my male model and advised him to bring a smart white shirt and a smart blazer/wasitcoast so that he is a complete character when i have finished creating the hair and make-up during the assessment. 

Products Used 
-All makeup brushes
-Kryolan foundation palette 
-Supra colour palette 
-Kryolan scab blood 
-Wax (unknown brand)
-liquid blood
-Makeup cleanser, toner and moisturiser 
-Fullers earth 
-Moisturiser/cleanser/toner 
-Ben Nye Bruise Wheel 
-Tooth Enamel (unknown brand) 

Health and Safety 
Take care when applying products/make-up around the eye area if anything gets in models eye remove/wash out immediately 
Make sure all make-up brushes/tools are clean 
Make sure your hands are sanitised properly and products are clean (cross contamination)
Assess models skin if necessary considering any irritation or issues with their skin 
If models reacts in response to products badly (Allergies) remove immediately 

One to One with Kat.

I recently had a one to with Kat so that I could talk to her about my progress and current ideas in regards to our Gothic Horror project. I found the quick meeting really helpful as I was unsure about a few things in the brief, I also took the chance to show her some of my designs I created for my character. Kat gave me some feedback, explaining that I need to remember to create my face chart designs as I had created more contemporary designs so far. I felt quite silly when she gave me this feedback, as I didn't realise or remember that my characters designs need to be historical and periodical whilst creating my current face charts. Kat also advised me to keep making comparisons in my blog and also keep revisiting and reading the spark notes and my chosen novel. We also briefly went other my feedback from semester one, so that I could better my B grade to an A, Kat felt I needed to create more variety in my face chary designs and executing these designs onto models more, so that I am practicing and exploring my ideas. 

I felt happy after my meeting with Kat and felt I had a better understanding of what I needed to do. My next steps in response to this meeting, are to put these points into practice so that I can better my grades. Although, I may book another appointment with Kat so that she can briefly go through my blog and have her opinion on anything that can be improved. 

Dorian Gray Adaptations.

In order for me to develop my Gothic Horror design so that it correctly symbolises my Gothic Novel era when executed onto my model, I have decided to look at some other portrayals and adaptations of my character Dorian Gray. I think it is important for me to consider and look at other sources on my character so that my hair and make-up designs truly reflect the Victorian era which is dominant in the novel and also the emotions and background story told about my character.Considering factors such as the period/time, fashion and resources etc,  when creating a character is important as these all help contribute into your final designs and truly reflect how your character historically should look. Recently I've been considering the continuity assessment whilst planning my final design and feel it would be smart for me to practice and plan my two hair and make-up designs which both historically and aesthetically symbolise my character and Gothic Novel, but without being too difficult to execute within time limited exam conditions. My plan is to create an immaculate and dramatic, hair and face chart and then adapt those designs into a more simpler design.

http://www.welovemoviesmorethanyou.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/02/ru8F6S8zAHmb0l9KLLyV5LTbUNm.jpg

The Picture of Dorian Gray Directed By Albert Lewin 1945.

The main character Dorian Gray is played by the actor Hurd Hatfield, I thought the chosen actor for this role was very fitting and appropriate for the way Dorian is described in Oscar Wildes' novel. The Dorian in this film is immaculately groomed, handsome, with sleek neat dark hair, he has a handsome face but not as youthful as other actors that have portrayed Dorian Gray before. I feel Hurd Hatfield in this movie fits the role well and also has a dangerous auto about him, maybe because he is some handsome. The hair in this film is not Victorian at all and you can see its heavily influenced by the current 1940 hair trends and not the Victorian era as the hair is quite flat, slicked and face away from the face with no facial hair.

Dorian Gray 1970 By Massimo Dallamano.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dorian_Gray_(1970_film)

https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEid1-fqgSq0eHdLChkZ_OXk2bXBQO5fvXinn2bjIzipIDHB1rgBjYBthRI11oZA45TWFxdmitCnC94ndSJZTMYdTHSu8-ftUW-e2oGCKU6Z3oxLbf-PEvSLV1Eoohniugb16pYScMIXUqMr/s1600/Dorian+Gray_1970_Helmut+Berger.JPG

Helmet Berger plays as Dorian Gray in this adaptation of Oscar Wilde's novel, I found his characteristics very different from other versions of Dorian Gray. I feel Helmut has very handsome features yet doesn't fit the young and innocent persona I feel Dorian Gray has since he doesn't age and charms all his victims. I feel the hairstyle in this image and throughout the film is heavily inspired by the 70's when this film was produced, there is lots of volume and layers in the hair framing and hanging around the face.

http://staticfiles.chillertv.com/styles/large/Peter_Firth.jpg?itok=RAHCb2Wp

The Picture of Dorian Gray 1976 Directed By John Gorrie.

Dorian Gray is played by Peter Firth, similarly to Shane Briant, he plays a blonde version of Dorian Gray also. I feel this adaptation of Dorian is very youthful and Peter Firth has a very innocent looking and fresh face throughout the film, his hair is very fluffy and thick in this film, which I think is heavily influenced by the era of the 70's at the time. 70's hairstyles were all about volume, shine, height and texture and you can definitely see this being added to this Dorian Gray character. 

https://i.ytimg.com/vi/Topi0YxLQ7g/hqdefault.jpg

The Picture of Dorian Gray 1973 Author; Oscar Wilde, Directed By Glenn Jordan.

In this portrayal of Dorian Gray the main character is played by Shane Briant, I felt he made a okay Dorian Gray but as a reader of the novel and also comparing it to other adaptations I found it strange to see Dorian as a blonde, as I always think of him as tall, dark, handsome and innocent looking. Shane has a beautiful, young fresh face which fits the character of Dorian Gray well, but the hairstyle and the hair colour threw me off a little bit. Shane Briant also appears much more younger then other portrays of Dorian Gray.

References 
http://hair-and-makeup-artist.com/mens-1970s-hairstyles/
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Main_Page
http://www.sparknotes.com/lit/doriangray/facts.html

What is High Definition Broadcasting?

High Definition Broadcasting/or television movies a higher resolution (pixels) that is better than the resolution provided by standard definition television. The application and use of professional, HD friendly cosmetic and hair products are essential when working on clients that are going to be filmed and under professional lighting. 

When under high definition and standard broadcasting, any imperfections, impurities and blemishes will be highlighted and enhanced under camera, because of this it is important and ideal to apply and use the most suitable techniques and cosmetics in order for your client to appear normal under camera. Lots of things can go wrong if you don't wear camera ready products whilst being filmed etc, flash back, oily skin, washed out skin.

http://pixel.nymag.com/imgs/fashion/daily/2014/06/04/04-angelina-jolie-makeup.w1200.h630.jpg
Image of Angelina Jolie, with bad flash back due to her powder used.


Hair is equally as important to maintain, just like using the correct cosmetics. Making sure the hair appears, healthy and neat with the use of hair gels, sprays and protectants make a big difference to the hair. Depending on the client and the hair and make-up you have to create as a makeup artist and stylist, using the correct products and techniques are essential to making your client look amazing under camera.

Studio Session with Helen - Practice

In today's studio session with Helen, she encouraged us to begin practicing any ideas or hair charts we had created so that we can start preparing for the continuity assessment. Before hand the session I had already began to think of different hairstyles from the 1890's that I could make more simple and easy to re create but also fit in with my character. Helen made an important point during the session and advised us maybe to create one elaborate detailed hairstyle you would recreate if it wasn't a continuity assessment and was more flexible, and then break down that hairstyle adapting it so that it is easier to create. 

I found this session helpful and it really helped me to better visualise the Victorian hair I want to create for my continuity assessment. Me and my classmate Beccy decided to both share and work on Toby, our only male classmate. Although, he didn't have a lot of hair, the length was perfect and his hair was very thick too. I began to first look at some hairstyles on Pinterest that were suitable for my character Dorian Grey, so that I could recreate it on Toby. After looking online and not finding much I decided to re create a hair chart I had brought with me instead. I had previously created three had charts before the session but decided to only try one chart in this session. 

Because Toby only had a small amount of hair on top of his head, due to his recent removal of dread locks, I found it difficult to create the same amount of volume and texture I wanted in the hair as his hair was extremely soft and also not as thick as I had to share half of his hair with my partner. I began creating my hair design by sectioning Toby's hair and then applying hot rollers in the hair. When first using these hot rollers I rolled the hair inwards making the roller sit forwards on the head and not sideways, I applied the rollers this way because I wanted the hair to sit/fall away from the face to the back of the head instead. 

After applying the rollers into the hair, I began to undo the rollers and then brush out the curls lightly. Making sure my curls are nice and fluffy, I began to back comb the sections of hair from the root, I did this because I wanted to add more volume and texture to the hair. When I was happy with the texture I had achieved, I began to form the shape of the hair. I wanted the hair to sit and frame the forehead and side of the face but have a really sleek glossy finish to the hair. For me this hairstyle really reminded me of the character of Dorian Gray throughout Oscar Wilde's book, short, glossy, soft, sleek hair.  I want this hair design to make Dorian Grey appear extravagant, stylish, polished and formal. 

I was happy with my first outcome when practicing my hair chart, but felt it was a little flat and did not hold as much detailed curl and wave to the hair. Because of this I asked Helen for feedback and she helpfully advised me to try using the barrel curlers in the hair instead of heat rollers as they created a much more defined curl in the hair. I tried this technique and loved the outcome, especially when I began to form the hair so that It perfectly fell alongside the side of the face in a wave shape. I finished the hairstyle by applying hair spray and shine finish oil. Next session, I plan to try and find an available male model to come into the session with me so that I can practice again. I have began looking for male models by asking around in University and also asking friends of friends, I haven't had much luck so far but I plan to ask someone who was recommended to me by a friend. When considering my final hair design, It would be ideal if my final model had facial hair already, that is long enough to style how I want to, although If I can't find a model with facial hair I will have to adapt my design, find someone new or even experiment with postiche hair pieces and spirit gum. 

I feel that my final hair design for the continuity assessment will probably be quite simple and sleek, portraying Dorian Gray as handsome, smart and groomed. My reasoning for keeping the hair design simple is because, Dorian Grey is very much depicted the same throughout the novel and only introduces a different portray of him when his portrait of himself becomes more alive. I would still be very happy if my final outcome of my characters hair was a simple design but very glossy, sleek and immaculate. I think this hair design would compliment my make-up design well as my make-up designs I have been planning are much more dramatic and colourful, so by me keeping the hair design simple but still relevant to the Victorian time period, I can still capture the true Dorian Gray and his portrait as one subtly. 

Heated Rollers in the hair, the curl outcome of heat rollers. 

I applied heat rollers in the hair in a forward direction facing the front of the head (Helen later advised me to apply the rollers the opposite way (side ways) In order to create more wave and definition.

First attempt at creating my hair chart design , you can see at the side of the head  were I have tried to form the wave shape in the hair but It was still quite flat against the head.

First attempt at creating/forming the hair into a wave shape at the side of the hair, I was partly successful in completing the hair chart but wanted more definition and volume in the hair especially at the front of the hair to make the hair appear more Victorian.

Second attempt at creating wave and texture, the hair is more shapely and textured with a defined wave.

The hair sits in a wave shape at the front of the head and then follows through to the back of the head. 

In this image you can see how I had to section the hair, this was Tobys hair length and the rest of the sides of his hair were shaved off completely. 

Mens Hairstyles In 1890 London. x Dorian Gray

Since recently learning about Late Victorian hair in studio sessions, I have decided to do some independent research so that I can get a better Idea of what hairstyle my Gothic Horror character would have normally worn in the correct time period. My character is Dorian Gray, 'The picture of Dorian Gray, By Oscar Wilde was published and set in 1890 London, because of this a lot of the hairstyles commonly worn in this time period were a lot more modern and diverse compared to early Victorian Hairstyles. At the beginning of the 1890's mens hair became a lot shorter, normally shaved at the sides and then slicked back with a centre parting. The image below is an example of the hair worn by many Victorian men within this time period. The mans hair in this image is very neat and slicked back without any hair out of place, it is quite a smart hairstyle and also practical. Although, this hairstyle isn't as detailed and extravagant as early Victorian Hair it still has a very neatly formed structure and is smart and practical. 

1890s Short Hair: Image courtesy of Joan L. Severa, Dressed for the Photographer: Ordinary Americans and Fashion, 1840-1900, 1995


Below is another image, showing an example of mens hair in 1890's. Again the man's hair is sleeked back and has a centre parting, shorter at the sides and quite full on top towards the back of the head. Although, the man in this image doesn't appear to have any facial hair which was unheard of in the early Victorian century, this became more and more common in young Victorian Men in 1890's,who were less likely to have a beard a moustache like before. 

https://s-media-cache-ak0.pinimg.com/736x/fd/6b/df/fd6bdfd576ecef45a8a0adaaca33ac31.jpg

Since planning the execution of my character Dorian Gray and also considering the hair that my model will have, I've adapted my ideas a lot. Initially I was very interested in creating a quite complex and detailed hairstyle consisting of barrels curls, lots of volume and also very structured facial hair. Since having the time to practice and analyse these ideas properly I have now decided to instead create a similar hairstyle that is very sleek and neat but also holds a lot wave creating some really nice detail in the hair. I plan to practice a hair chart I have created in response to developing my ideas, I plan to practice this chart in a studio session with Helen, so that I can get some feedback and improve anything. 



References. 

https://www.uvm.edu/landscape/dating/clothing_and_hair/1890s_hair_men.php
https://s-media-cache-ak0.pinimg.com/736x/fd/6b/df/fd6bdfd576ecef45a8a0adaaca33ac31.jpg

1890s Short Hair: Image courtesy of Joan L. Severa, Dressed for the Photographer: Ordinary Americans and Fashion, 1840-1900, 1995

Hair with Helen - Late Victorian Hairstyles

In my most recent hair session with Helen, she demonstrated how to recreate a late Victorian hairstyle commonly worn by Victorian women. I really enjoyed this session and felt the sideshow Helen had shown us was also really informative and helpful. I had already done some independent research before hand this session, looking at men and women's hairstyles and grooming habits but this session was more particular with historical dates and influences that changed Victorian hair etc the world war. After Helen guided us through the powerpoint and gave us further information we could explore further, we began to learn how to create the Late Victorian hairstyle. 

Helen began by brushing out the hair and then creating three clean partings, (one middle parting separating the front section of the hair and then one section at the back which held the most hair).

After parting the hair she began to create some curls in the front section were we made the centre parting, we used hot rollers this session which were pre-heating whilst we were watching the demo.Gradually taking small sections of the hair from the front parting, we rolled the hair in the hot rollers, I ended up having to put at least 4 rollers in the hair on both sides on the front section. After we had applied all the rollers to the front section of the hair (facing away from the face), I began to start forming the back of the hair. Taking the back section I had created at the beginning, I parted it once again creating two more sections, this makes the hair look as if it is in a half up half down style. Making sure to keep the middle section of the back in a ponytail, I began to curl all the ponytail hair and loose back section of hair. Once I completed curling all of the hair, I began to undo the front curls from the rollers. After the hair was free at the front, I lightly brushed out the curls and then began to bobby pin the front curls so that they formed into the curled ponytail of hair at the back of the head. I styled this carefully making sure the hair looked soft and neat. Completing the rest of this look was quite easy as I just began to form the hair making it look elegant and pretty and making sure the curls I had created fell nicely. I feel that the only thing I struggled with when creating this hairstyle was parting the hair as precisely and neatly as I wanted to. Working on a models hair instead of a dolls head is very different and I feel that my partings are cleaner when I am working on a real models hair.

I really enjoyed this session and found that my attempt was successful and was better than I expected it to be. Although, I am disappointed that I can't practice or use this hairstyle more as my Gothic Horror character is male, I still found the session really interesting and it showed me how much effort and time Victorian Men and Women dedicated to looking groomed and smart. 

Late Victorian hair 1860-1890

Notes 

-Curls are looser, curls are moved to the back of the head
-Women loved decoration in the hair
-Late Victorian women wore elaborate hats 
-Centre partings, short, curled hair and fringes were popular
-Decorative updo hairstyles were common
-Structured plaits were introduced also

1873 -1880 
-Roses adorned in the hair 
-Hair was pulled back at the sides 
-curls and ringlets were created at the back of the hair 

1961-65
-Centre partings, buns and plaited hair was popular
-Hair was still styled away from the face, the backs of the hair still pulled to the sides
-More began to wear more practical hairstyles in response to the war

-Women wrapped hair around fabric and slept in their hairstyle to add and maintain texture into the hair 
-Women began to wear hair pieces to fill out and style elaborate hairstyles
-Alice Viddal (Alice in Wonderland) was Lewis Carrolls muse/ Good example of a virgin fringe 
-`Daniel Deronda by George Elliot 
-BBC Series (good hair styling inspired by Late Victorian Century) 
-Women wrote books under a mans name in order to be taken seriously (George Elliot)
- 61-65 Major general Ambrose Civil war general (origin of side burns/mutton chops derived from his prominent hairstyles)
Charles Dickens - Born 1812 - died 58
1870 Charles Dickens image 
(Look into his facial hair history)

Sues Session - Sweat, Fever and Pallor

In todays' studio session, Sue demonstrated how to create a hot and sweaty make-up look as if someone was seriously ill and had a fever. Although Sue explained that the same techniques we used today could be used to make a client appear very tired and exhausted we focused on creating a sweaty, flustered makeup look. I really enjoyed today's session and although I don't think I will use this makeup technique for my Gothic Horror character, it was still really useful to learn and I found it really interesting. 
























Products Used 

Glycerine
supra color
Matte primer
Moisturiser
Vaseline 
Eye drops
Latex
Water

Health and Safety 

Wear old clothing when working with liquid latex and protect your models clothes with an apron 
Make sure the room is well ventilated as the Liquid Latex is potent, can effect you and your model
When applying Liquid latex around the eye area make sure to get model to keep their eyes closed until dry 
Make sure all make-up brushes/tools are clean 
Make sure your hands are sanitised properly and products are clean (cross contamination)
Assess models skin if necessary considering any irritation or issues with their skin 

If models reacts in response to products badly (Allergies) remove immediately 

Make sure all products are removed correctly 

Notes 

Pallor (color of the skin)

-Aim of session is to create a subtle style of make-up look
-For inspiration you can look at different illnesses caught in the Victorian Era etc Tb, Blue lips, Blotchy chest, different stages of an illness, fever, skin complaints, Blotchy neck etc.

Fever make-up look 
- Red in and around the eye/ sore red eyes can be created by using a red lip/eye pencil 
-Watery eyes can be created by using individual eye drop files (boots) individuals are better to use as they avoid contamination 
- Black sponges are good for adding sweat 
-Glycerine is good for sweat, sticks and falls slowly down the face and holds in place
-Its important to think about the colour of the skin etc no base makeup just effects, more skin like
-Hair, sweat around the hair also, can swarm down the hair to appear hot and sweaty, this can be done by spraying water through a bottle onto the face and then making sure the hair is included 
-You can also by sweat gel and create sweaty clothes by wetting light coloured clothing with water to finish whole look on a character
-To create a slow falling tear (eyes) apply Glycerine under the eye lash through a pipette
-Consider what type of look you are trying to create, ill or tiredness etc
-redness, bags, wrinkles, redder nose, palish skin- these are all factors of tiredness
-Cover over any blemishes (you cannot keep blemishes visible on the skin because of continuity 

Techniques and steps 

-First analyse the skin 
-apply moisturiser
-cover any blemishes and blend out any edges
-use matte primer on the tzone of clients skin this will remove or hid any shine 
-Use supra colour and a fine point brush to apply colour onto the skin
-Analyse the colours on the skin (is there already redness)
-Dab and feather product on the skin, use fingers to blend product into the skin 
-Using latex or old age stiple and a baby bud apply latex to the lips, (get your model to screw their lips together to bring out the lines and detail in lips more)
- Take Glycerin on a sponge and lightly dab onto the skin, this creates the sweat effect
-You can spray water all over the face too create more dew and sweat effect to the face 
- Product can be flicked onto the face etc supra colour to create a rash like effect, this is done by adding alcohol to the product and then flicking the brush onto area of the face
-The latex applied to the lips can also be covered over with colour etc supra colour 
-Apply eye drops, break packet, put clients head back apply eye drops and then allow to drop and roll forward

Creating a bruised eye on Beccy.

I recently created a bruised eye effect on my peer Beccy, she allowed me to practice this effect on her as we had learnt how to create a bruised eye earlier that day in Sues lesson, but I didn't have enough time to swap with my partner and practice myself. Because of this Beccy allowed to practice it on her in my spare time. I feel that I successfully created a bruised eye and enjoyed it a lot too, I chose to use my Ben Nye bruise wheel to create this bruised eye effect. Before I created this bruised eye I looked at some images of all types of bruises, I ended up choosing a image of a black fresh bruised eye.

I began to create the bruised eye by making sure the area of skin I was working on was clean and primed slightly as I didn't want the skin to be dewy or too oily. After prepping the skin, I began to apply darker blue,black and purple shades in the inner corner of the eye, using my Kryolan supra colour palette and also my bruise wheel. I gradually built up and then blended out the colours using my fingers and eye shadow brushes. 

To improve this bruised eye I would use more red/pinkish tones to create more colouration and broken blood vessels on the skin, this would have added more effect. I also would have extended the bruise on the edge of the nose a little too so that it appeared more extreme and painful. 

Gothic Horror - Monster Mash.

Today's seminar with Kat was very interesting and informative. She talked a lot about the physiological and psychoanalytical approaches we have towards Gothic horror, 'horrific' or 'scary' characters and monsters and other linking aspects of the Gothic Horror. Something new that I learnt from todays seminar was, understanding how 'monsters' in film and literature subconsciously and consciously portray and create anxieties and fears within ourselves. I was unaware how physiological Gothic horror literature and its characters were and found it the origins of these 'Monsters' fascinating. 

Notes 

Frankenstein. 
In response to the story Frankenstein by Mary Shelley, there was questioning and fear in regards of the development and progress of Science. Frankenstein himself was created by a monster and many of the characters in the book portray someone real in Mary Shelley's life or even mind. Whilst doing some further research I found a physiological analysis of Frankenstein by Mary Shelley, written by someone else, explaining the different physiological factors throughout the novel and the characters. 


"By focusing on Victor Frankenstein and the creature, Mary Shelley succeeded in creating a novel that mirrors a personal story as well as many of the intellectual and aesthetic themes of the romantic era. It is obvious that Victor Frankenstein suffers from a mental disorder in the shape of pathological narcissism. Therefore, focusing on the disorder might be a useful prism for the understanding of the novel and its subsequent influence on popular culture." 

- Quote sourced from http://www.indadvendt.dk/2012/03/a-psychological-analysis-of-frankenstein/ written by Majken Hirche.


Edward Scissorhands.
Edward Scissorhands as a character represents a misunderstood, confused monster that desires to be normal and fit into society. The quote below is taken from allegory discussing the character of Edward Scissorhands in Tim Burton's film, Cory Sampson explains how,why and what Edward Scissorhands portrays as his character in the film.

"Nevertheless, this film seems to aptly support the notion of Burton as an auteur, as the allegorical structure of the film is supported by its cinematography, and its message is in keeping with the common theme of disability and the well-meaning outsider often explored by Burton in both films and books; here, it seems as though Burton has, either accidentally or intentionally, constructed a near-perfect allegory of a man afflicted with the autistic spectrum disorder known as Asperger’s Syndrome."

- Quote sourced from http://www.mimarkit.com/tim-burtons-edward-scissorhands-as-a-psychological-allegory/ Written By Cory Sampson.


Baron Semedi - Master of Death.

Baron Semedi is a popular 'Loa' (Spirit) part of the Hatian Vodou, Vodou originated from the Caribbean and was then spread across the world to places such as France. Baron Semedi is usually dressed in a top hat, dark round glasses without lenses, a black tail coat and oddly cotton plugs in his nostrils, this is so he can resemble a corpse. Baron Semedi has a skull like pale face and a distinctive nasally voice. Baron Semedi is known for his disruptive and obscene behaviour and is never without a cigar or bottle of rum. As well as being the master of death Baron Semedi is also a giver of life and usually greets corpses after they are buried taking them to the afterworld. 

Some information above was sourced from https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Baron_Samedi.

The popularity of zombie movies is a response to ageing western society.
The nature of ghosts change/depend on their situation, many ghosts live and function as normal whilst dead where as other ghosts live tormented and upset as they don't want to let go. 

Werewolves

Werewolves are a hybrid of a Helman wolf. 
Selfhood - a distinct focus on the self
Werewolves are presented as negative, alien and threatening to the social collective 'intericrized' 

Vampires 

'Nosferatu' 1922 German expressionist silent horror film.
First representation of the 'Vampire'
Vampires started to evolve and change into more human 'normal' forms
'Dracula infused culture'
Projecting our fears through the vampire
Hunger- commical interpretation of Vampires feeding
The evolution of Vampires they present them as living a glamorous, superior, privileged capitalist lifestyle were Vampires are the consumers and powerful.
Through vampires we can project our fears and anxieties etc diseases, death, illnesses
All anxieties and fears can be formed in Gothic Horror/ monster genre
'Interview with a Vampire' was a response to the disease aids and the link between blood, human sexuality, death and disease.
'Twilight' projects our fear of ageing in the form of sparkling, flawless, immortal, indestructible Vampire skin.

After looking at Kats powerpoint we did a small activity in groups of three, brainstorming our approach to different monsters, my group got 'Charismatic maker' which we developed into 'Mad Scientist'. This was a good activity as it was interesting to hear other peoples opinions and views of what the typical Mad Scientist would look like, we also discussed where we had seen a character like that before in regards of films and books etc. We only knew one film which was Frankenstein but Kat suggested the film 'The Fly' a film created in the 70's about a scientist who's experiment goes very wrong.