Saturday 6 February 2016

Victorian Hair Care and Hygiene




In response to a recent seminar with Helen I have decided to find out more about the hair and hygiene products used in the Victorian Era. Both Victorian men and women appeared to have quite long and thick hair during the Victorian era and towards the end began to use quite a lot of heat on their hair to achieve different styles. This is what made me begin to wonder did they have special products for their hair? etc Heat protecting products, polishing oils, protective oils. 

After finding three interesting sources I have found out more information on Victorian hygiene and hair care and have even found a really fun website called 'Our Heritage Of health', which is a community of people who recreate historical hygiene and hair care products to use today in the modern world. 


Men's and Women's Haircare and Products 
(Information taken from; http://thehistoryofthehairsworld.com/hair_19th_century.html.)



Macassar Oil Advertisement 19th Century.
Image sourced from Google.
https://sweatyknitter.files.wordpress.com/2012/05/macassaroil_ad2.jpg
Towards the end of the century after 1860 London, Mens Hair started to become shorter and shorter but a moustache and beard was still very popular. Victorian gentlemen used a variety of waxes and oil products to maintain their hair and keep it in shape. Some gentlemen even used 'Wooden Frames' at night to 'Preserve the form of their moustaches'. 
A popular hair oil that many Victorian men used was called 'Macassar oil' this oil was made from a mix of coconut oil, palm oil and oil taken from the "ylang-ylang" flower. In advertising this product promised to 'strength and stimulate hair growth'.






Portrait of Mr Fritz Henkel,Artist Unknown.
Google Sourced Image.
http://www.henkel.com/image/25894/uncropped/692/960/8d1d2a026ca34bf5c417e90c0e48854a/uq/history-fritz-henkel-portrait-1876.jpg
in 1883 a German merchant called Fritz Henkel invented and launched a new hair pomade to the market. He wanted to 'Increase the revenue of his company 'Henkel & Cie'. In the next century the 'Henkel' group became one of the most important companies in the world specialising in making hair care products, Mr Fritz Henkel's businesses expanded having his company in at least 125 countries. 

Portrait of Eliza Rossana Gilbert, Artist Unknown.
Google Sourced Image.
https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/7/7e/Joseph_Karl_Stieler-Lola_Montez1847.jpg


The Countess of Landsfeld; Eliza Rossana Gilbert, was best known for her Cosmetic and Recipe book called "The arts of beauty; or secrets of a lady's toilet, with hints to gentlemen, on the art of fascinating" Published 1858. "The book contained, besides, recipes and methods for all the aspects of feminine beauty, and some recommendations for gentlemen".I found this book really interesting and also quite strange, as in the Victorian Era it was almost unheard of to wear make-up or change your appearance to appear beautiful as 'pale and interesting' was the appealing look of the era. So for a established Countess to then write and publish a book, which holds all the beauty secrets and tips for men and women was almost a scandalous and weird book to publish as the Countess herself was probably admired a lot for her looks that men assumed were natural. 

"The arts of beauty; or secrets of a lady's toilet, with hints to gentlemen, on the art of fascinating" Published 1858 By Eliza Rossana Gilbert.

Gray Hair Dye Recipe -

-10 Grams of Gallic Acid
-1 Ounce of Acetic Acid 
-1 Ounce of Tincture of Sesqui - Chloride of iron 

Instructions- 

"Dissolve the gallic acid in the tincture of sesqui-chloride of iron, and then add the acetic acid. Before using this preparation, the hair should be thoroughly washed with soap and water. A great and desirable peculiarity of this dye is that it can be so applied as to color the hair either black or the lighter shade of brown. If black is the color desired, the preparation must be applied when the hair is moist, and for brown it shall not be used until the hair is perfectly dry. The way to apply the compound is to dip the points of a fine tooth comb into it until the interstices are fill with the fluid, then gently draw the comb through the hair, commencing at the roots, till the dye has perceptibly taken effect. When the hair is entirely dry, oil and brushes it as usual ". 


Brushing Teeth in the 19th Century.

(Sourced used to collect information.)

The above link takes you to the website 'HistoryUndressed.com', a website I used to find out more on Victorian beauty ideals for women and also men. On this website I also found an interesting recipe for toothpaste and how Victorian's maintained their teeth in the 19th century. 

Victorian toothbrushes were normally made from 'Boar' and 'Horse' hair, although 'Horse hair' was preferred as the hair was softer but this was only affordable for the rich. 'Toothpowder's' were available for purchase yet Victorian people usually made their own Toothpastes and powders from home. Victorian men and women also used 'Salt' as a mouth rinse on a occasion but this was recommend more for men then women. Victorians even used a soap bar to wash/ rinse out their mouth also, this was normally used 2-3 times a week. This soap was called ' Marseilles soap" made from a mixture of 'olive oil, sea water and ash'. 

Victorian Tooth Cleaner Recipe - 
Taken from http://www.historyundressed.com/2010/04/victorian-ladys-toilette-by-kathleen.html.

- 2 Ounces Phosphate of dry chalk 
- 8 Grains of powdered Myrrh 
-1 Ounce of Iris Powder
-Mix all of these together and then add 
-1 Drop Solution of Cocaine 
-13 Drops of Eucalyptus Oil 
-Mix altogether and then strain. Excellent for sensitive teeth and tender gums 

Victorian Women's Hygiene and concoctions - 
(Sourced from -http://www.historyundressed.com/2010/04/victorian-ladys-toilette-by-kathleen.html)

"Victorian women used pumice stones after a good soak and sloughed their skin with dry salt mixed with glycerin (I've paid a good price for the same type of thing at spas today). They used flowers from the lime tree in their orangeries in footbaths.


Hair was washed in many things, from bicarbonate of soda to salted rainwater mixed with an infusion of colocynth. Rinses were lemon juice, herbal mixtures and even beer to bring out the luster and body. Hair was cut ¼ inch at the new moon during the first quarter. It was believed they would never have split ends, nor would the hair be robbed of any vitality using this method."



Refreshing Face Recipe -
- 1 wineglass of fresh lemon-juice 
- 1 pint of Rain water 
- 5 drops of rose - water 
- This should be kept corked, and used from time to time, this will preserve the colour of the skin

This recipe was created and used as a face wash/ toner, another version of this recipe is created with equal parts of 'Brandy' and 'Milk'. A mixture of orange-flower, rosewater and olive oil was also popularly used. These recipes were seen as essential to maintain and achieve 'soft and supple' skin.

Victorian Lip Pomade Recipe - 

- 2 Parts of pure beeswax 
-11 parts of Olive oil
-3 drops of Tincture of benzoin or roses 
- Melt wax over a slow flame, add oil. Mix and remove from heat. When cool enough add perfume. Put in miniature tins, allow to set, 

This lip pomade recipe was used by many Victorian Women in order to achieve pink/ tinted glossy, healthy lips. 


Victorian Shampoo Alternatives - 
Sourced from (http://ourheritageofhealth.com/victorian-shampoo-alternatives/)

These are some different Shampoo alternatives used in the Victorian Era, I have taken these interesting recipes from the site;http://ourheritageofhealth.com/victorian-shampoo-alternatives/. I thought this website was a particularly good source to use as the writer of this post also discussed quotes and recipes they had cited from Victorian History books, Women's magazines and other sources 
etc. 


(http://ourheritageofhealth.com/victorian-shampoo-alternatives/)

Shampoo Alternatives.

Soap 
- Soap bars were normally used when doing laundry
-'Castile or Toilet' Soap was used as a shampoo for the hair
- Using soap is a 'Simple and natural way to wash your hair without stripping away its natural oils'

Vinegar 
- Baking Soda and Vinegar can be mixed together in equal parts and then used as a shampoo
-This formula helps clean the roots of the hair thoroughly 
-My sister uses apple cider vinegar today, to clean her hair when she has run out of her normal shampoo, she said sometimes it cleans better and her hair doesn't feel too dry or squeaky afterwards

Black Tea 
- Depending on the hair type, texture and colour Black Tea can be used as a really good cleanser and shampoo
-This method is best used on dark brown/black hair and may temporarily darken light blonde hair

Rosemary 
- 'Using Rosemary is a natural way to add shine to the hair without having having to use silicone - based conditioners and styling products'
- Rosemary also acts as a highly cleansing wash 

Egg Yolks
- Egg Yolks can be used as a hair mask and also to deeply moisturise and nourish the hair
- I have used this method on my own hair quite a few times as it helps restore the strength back into my hair making it feel less weak and dead 

Rum 
- 'New England Rum, constantly used to wash the hair, keeps it very clean and free from disease, and promotes its growth a great deal more that Macassar Oil'. - The American Frugal Housewife (Published 1833).


References and Sources.
http://ourheritageofhealth.com/victorian-shampoo-alternatives/
http://www.historyundressed.com/2010/04/victorian-ladys-toilette-by-kathleen.html
http://thehistoryofthehairsworld.com/hair_19th_century.html

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